Georgian architecture in Britain reached its
final expression in the Regency style. The true Regency period—when the
Prince of Wales ruled as regent during his father’s supposed madness—lasted
only ten years, from 1818 to 1820. But in an architectural sense Regency
started at about the beginning of the new century and lasted until the end
of George TV’s reign in 1830.
Two characteristic Regency architects in Britain were Sir John Soane and
John Nash. Soane developed a highly original and eclectic style, a kind of
elemental and subtle classicism, and his books about it reached Australia in
the first quarter of the nineteenth century. Nash became the King’s
favourite designer and thereby a leader of architectural taste. Unwilling to
submit to the rigours of academic classicism, he was a great entrepreneur of
elegant terrace-house projects where picturesque effects were heightened by
the lavish use of stucco decoration.
The Regency style expressed the refined taste of the English upper classes,
even when it was adopted for buildings to be used by people of less exalted
rank. Regency architects were concerned with elegance, variety and subtlety;
they took delight in the picturesque, and their interests extended beyond
the individual building to the creation of harmonious townscapes. Their
buildings often featured balconies, curved veranda roofs, decorative
ironwork and Greek-inspired decoration.
Regency architecture in Australia exhibited more delicacy and subtlety than
could be found in the Georgian style. Building forms tended to be simpler
and classical details more sparse. Gentle projections and recessions,
exploiting fine shadow lines, were used to divide façades into panels, or to
enframe windows and doors, or model surfaces, according to desired
proportions. Stucco, using locally made lime or imported Roman cement,
became the principal finishing material. Sometimes good brickwork or
stonework would be left exposed, but more often stucco was applied to
roughly built masonry walling and lined to simulate ashlar. Exterior paint
became common. Verandas abounded, and cantilevered balconies appeared;
porticoes were more in evidence where climate permitted, and timber
treillage emerged for the first time. Wrought- and cast-iron decoration was
occasionally used, as were sheet-metal roof tiles, signs of the industrial
revolution in Britain. Slate roofing was introduced. Exterior walls were
extended upwards to form parapets, concealing the roof behind. English
cylinder glass, in relatively large panes, made French windows and margin
glazing important Regency elements.
Panshanger, near Longford Tasmania; Old
Colonial Regency style
Rockwall House, designed by John Verge, in
Potts Point, New South Wales; Old Colonial Regency style
Hyde Park Barracks, designed by Francis
Greenway; Old Colonial Georgian; drawing by Hardy Wilson in 1914
Old Government House. Brisbane. Completed 1862.
Prince George's
Culture Club - A Trail Through Regency Brighton
By Doug Devaney and Tom Briggs
23/04/2004
Image: Shows a photograph of a head and shoulders portrait of the Prince
Regent wearing lavish period clothing. He has short brown hair and is
pictured against a regal red curtain.
George IV, after Sir Thomas Lawrence. Courtesy of Royal Pavilion Libraries
and Museum.
Stanley and Livingstone, Lewis and Clarke, Tintin and Snowy. To these
gallant pairs of explorers must be added the names Devaney and Briggs.
Theirs was the task of challenging elements, mastering hills and suffering
blisters. All in order to bring you this, The Brighton and Hove Regency
Trail.
First, however, a note of caution. There are many definitions of what
comprises the Regency Period...
For some it is strictly between those years (1811 – 1820) when the
future King George IV was Prince Regent. For others it covers all of
George’s life.
We have taken a broader perspective, taking in work that appeared in the
early years of Queen Victoria’s reign, simply because they were designed
and/or built by the same architects responsible for Brighton’s Regency
pomp.
Image: Shows a photograph of the Royal Pavilion, Brighton on a sunny day.
It is reminiscent of India's Taj Mahal.
The Royal Pavilion: East Front. Courtesy of Royal Pavilion Libraries and
Museum.
Our first stop was the Regency Townhouse at 13 Brunswick Square. Set in
the heart of the estate developed by Charles Busby and Amon Wilds, it was
the creation of Brunswick Town which led to the formation of Hove as it is
known today. Indeed, the uniform cream colour of all the houses in the
Brunswick area is due to the 'town' having its own Act of Parliament,
which demanded a standard for the exteriors that lasts to this day.
The Townhouse project, headed by Nick Tyson, aims to recreate life amongst
the fashionable set of the early 19th century. Not just upstairs but also
from the perspective of the staff downstairs. Inspired by the way
Americans preserve their sites of historic interest and passionate as a
native Brightonian, Nick was convinced of the need to do something similar
with Brighton’s Regency heritage.
Image: Shows a photograph of the Regency Townhouse. It is a four-storey
building painted cream. The first floor has a balcony and columns, ornate
mouldings and window blinds decorate the fascia.
The Regency Townhouse at 13 Brunswick Square. Photo: Tom Briggs
Although it is two years from completion, this Lottery-funded project
still has much to offer, in particular a slide show displaying the various
methods, both local and imported, used to create the Brunswick estates.
While the bricks were produced on the now-picturesque public gardens in
the middle of the square, wood had to be imported from the Baltic.
The timber arrived at Shoreham Harbour, was pulled up Turnpike Road and
then cut accordingly on final delivery. Clearly, the Regency building
'boom' was a hugely labour-intensive operation, perhaps most fittingly
reflected in the fact that the houses are lined with bungaroush, a
combination of brick and pebble: possibly one of the earliest recorded
examples of builder corner-cutting.
To arrange a tour of the Regency Townhouse, click
here to visit their website.
Image: Shows a photograph of Adelaide Crescent. In the foreground is a
circular garden display. The background shows a crescent of Regency
houses.
Adelaide Crescent offers a picturesque communal garden area and a view of
the English Channel. Photo: Tom Briggs
After an hour or so’s education, perhaps it’s time to rest the brain
and merely take in some of the best that Regency architecture has to
offer. Ten minutes’ walk from Brunswick Square, via Western Road and
further into Hove, are Palmeira Square and Adelaide Crescent.
Both the Crescent - named after Queen Adelaide, wife of William IV – and
the Square contain distinctive central gardens which dip to become grassy
bowls. This design serves as a windbreak against the chilly coastal
breezes and allows a quiet contemplation of the way these architects took
their inspiration from classical design.
As one looks at the rows of wedding-cake houses, the way they curve with
the gradient brings to mind an inverted version of the Roman Coliseum.
This form of neo-classicism, where every influence was up for grabs, is
nowhere so evident as at St Andrew’s Church on Waterloo Street.
Image: Shows a photograph of St Andrew's Church, a building with a clear
Mediterranean influence. It has a clock tower and an arched door.
St Andrew’s Church in Waterloo Street differs significantly from other
Regency buildings, and is something of a rare gem. Photo: Tom Briggs
A fifteen-minute walk up the coast road towards Brighton, and standing on
the ley line that divides old Brighton and Hove, St Andrews is no longer
an active church. However, the ground on which it is built remains
consecrated, and services occasionally take place.
The church differs from other such buildings of its time in that it is the
only one which is Italian-inspired, as well as being the only one in Hove
to include a crypt. It was a project that the architect Busby desperately
wanted to take on, but he lost out to Sir Charles Barry. As a result Busby
refused to allow his body to be buried in the crypt and was instead buried
on a site which is now a branch of Tesco.
A warm welcome is guaranteed at St. Andrew’s Church, and there is a tour
of the building on offer. If you are particularly interested in Regency
architecture, custodian Mike Robins is a fine source of information on the
period, the buildings and, of course, the architects behind them.
Image: Shows a photograph of two typical Regency houses with laurel wreath
designs above the first floor windows.
Two houses in Montpelier Road display laurel wreaths above the windows, a
typical characteristic of Regency architecture. Photo: Tom Briggs
Mike held an event for Waterloo Street residents to celebrate the famous
battle. The celebration took place on June 19, the day after the
anniversary of the conflict. This was because news of Napoleon’s defeat
did not reach these shores until the following day. Indeed the presence of
the Prince Regent - or 'Prinny' as he was otherwise known - meant that
Brighton was the first town in England to be informed.
Despite having been virtually destroyed by some 300 acid house ravers in
1995, the church has since been lovingly restored and is something of an
unexpected gem. Definitely worth a visit.
Image: Shows a photograph of a gravestone commemorating Phoebe Hessel. A
weathered stone tablet in a churchyard.
The memorial stone to local legend Phoebe Hessel at St Nicholas’ Church
on Dyke Road. Photo: Tom Briggs
Next it’s up Montpelier Road to Dyke Road, via Upper North Street, to St
Nicholas’ Church, or rather its graveyard, where there are memorials to
two of Brighton’s Regency architects, namely Amon Wilds and Thomas Kemp.
Of more interest to most will be the gravestone of an altogether more
colourful character, Phoebe Hessel.
Phoebe lived to the age of 107, and was something of a local celebrity. In
addition to selling her wares on the seafront, she was also reputed to
have disguised herself as a man so that she could be with her lover, when
he served as a soldier overseas. A legend in her own long lifetime, she
was given a life pension by the Prince Regent. Whether hers is a true tale
of derring-do or a fable concocted for a gullible prince is still a matter
of debate.
Image: Shows a photograph of Lewes Crescent. In the foreground, to the
left, is an ornate column and some railings. The curve of the row of white
buildings is evident.
Lewes Crescent, leading to Sussex Square. This area has a communal garden
exclusive to residents. Photo: Tom Briggs
From reminders of mortality, via the Number 7 bus, to thriving Kemptown.
Not far from the Marina, Sussex Square and the adjacent Lewes Crescent are
steeped in historical folklore.
Recently the subject of a rumour that Britney Spears was moving in, Sussex
Square once played host to the Reverend Charles Dodgson, better known as
Lewis Carroll, and a plaque marks his frequent visits to the area.
Equally, architect Thomas Kemp, after whom the area is named, is
acknowledged to have lived in the square between 1827 and 1837.
Likewise, Lewes Crescent can boast such former residents as Princess
Louise, daughter of Edward VII, and actress Dame Anna Neagle.
Image: Shows a photograph of a blue plaque with white lettering,
commemorating Thomas Read Kemp, who lived in the house. It reads: ' Thomas
Read Kemp founder of Kemptown lived here from 1827 to 1837'. Around the
bottom, are the words: 'erected by the Regency Society'.
The plaque dedicated to the founding father of Kemptown. Photo: Tom Briggs
After all this culture, time for a quick drink. Down Edward Street and
across from the American Express building lies George Street, home to the
King’s Arms public house. Built in 1790, this local’s local was
reputed to have served as a brothel for Prinny and his chums.
According to legend, there is a tunnel linking it to the Pavilion.
Meanwhile the function room upstairs boasts a ceiling design similar to
one seen in the Pavilion. However, your intrepid reporters were unable to
confirm this, as the function room is now home to a giant, and rather
bad-tempered, macaw. There are limits to our curiosity, after all.
Image: Shows a photograph of a typical old-fashioned British public house.
The building is white, and it is decorated with window boxes and hanging
baskets.
The King's Arms pub, one of the Prince Regent's favourite haunts during
his time in Brighton. Photo: Tom Briggs
Suitably refreshed, it is a mere roll downhill to the Old Steine, where
our final points of interest are mercifully congregated.
Amon Henry Wilds’ Victoria Fountain was initially created in 1846 and
refurbished in 1995. An impressive iron monolith, shaped as intertwining
dolphins, it stands across the road from the YMCA, once the home of
Prinny’s mistress Maria Fitzherbert.
Image: Shows a photograph of an ornate fountain, in the centre of a lawned
garden with flower borders.
Amon Henry Wilds' Victoria Fountain, situated in the Old Steine area of
the town. Photo: Tom Briggs
In many ways, the triangle between George, Mrs Fitzherbert and Caroline of
Brunswick has its echoes in the private life of our own Prince of Wales.
There is no doubt that George genuinely loved Maria Fitzherbert, and is
rumoured to have secretly married her, but her Catholicism stood in the
way of royal acceptance.
Instead, George was forced to marry Caroline of Brunswick, a woman he
could not stand and, indeed, whom he barred from his own coronation.
However, Caroline had one quality that George lacked: popular appeal.
Doubtless, this was a crowded marriage. Caroline spent most of her time
being wined, dined and suited by various members of European society while
George, sadly, ended up a reclusive figure, reduced to having at least one
tunnel built between the Pavilion and his stables to save him from public
view and ridicule.
Image: Shows a photograph of a Regency building. It has steps leading to a
door in the middle of the building. There are lots of rectangular windows.
The YMCA building was once Mrs Fitzherbert's home. Photo: Tom Briggs
Acceptance, on the other hand, is the order of the day at the Unitarian
Church on New Road, just next to Pinocchio’s restaurant. You can hardly
miss this landmark by Amon Henry Wilds, based as it is on the Temple of
Theseus in Athens. Despite being "built after the manner of a heathen
temple", according to the Royal Brighton Guide of 1827, the chapel
still functions as a place of worship.
Amusingly, if it weren’t for the Prince Regent having run up such debts
with the development of the Pavilion this unique architectural attraction
may never have come into existence - he gladly agreed to sell the land for
£650. Visitors should phone in advance whereupon the charming and
enthusiastic Reverend Jane Barton will greet them.
Image: Shows a photograph of the Unitarian Church. The building resembles
those of classical Greece. Three of its four pillars are shown, and it has
a large red door.
Everyone is welcome at the Unitarian Church. Photo: Tom Briggs
Which brings us to the cause of George’s financial worries, as well as
his lasting contribution to the British landscape, The Royal Pavilion and
its grounds.
As Pavilion keeper Andrew Barlow points out, the design of the Pavilion,
both inside and out, is hardly in keeping with the Greek and Roman
influences normally associated with the Regency era. However, despite the
fusion of Indian and Chinese styles, he maintains that it is perfectly in
keeping with the attitude of the time towards anything exotic.
Image: Shows a photograph of a large, ornate stone gateway with an
onion-shaped green roof.
The William IV gate, 1832. Photo: Tom Briggs
Much has been written about the Pavilion itself, but nothing can compare
with its sheer spectacle. No matter what you have read or heard of the
place, you will not be disappointed. More recently the Pavilion Gardens
have been restored to architect John Nash’s original design.
While every effort has been made to obtain the same plants as the original
gardens, evolution has had its say through cross-pollination. That said,
the gardens themselves, with their sumptuous greenery and variety of
buskers, are perhaps the perfect venue to finally rest your feet after
your trek through Regency Brighton.